Starting work for the Northwest Avalanche Center

I recently learned that I was hired as a Professional Observer for the "Seattle Zone" by the Northwest Avalanche Center (NWAC).  I am so excited for this opportunity and can't wait for it to begin.!!! The  "Seattle Zone" includes the areas around; Stevens Pass, Snoqualmie Pass, Crystal Mountain, and Mountain Rainier. Starting on December 1st I'll be submitting observations to the forecast team looking to help augment and confirm their forecast while also attempting to fill in data gaps they might have. So PUMPED!!!

Completing the long road to IFMGA/UIAGM certification

Dale Remsberg; Technical Director of the American Mountain Guides Association shakes my hand after calling me up during "Pinning" Ceremony.

After 10 years of courses and exams administered by the AMGA, finally at their Annual Meeting in Salt Lake City at the Petzl facility I received my "pin".  I was elated to say the least. A "Pin" is the symbol of being an IFMGA guide; IFMGA is a acronym for  the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association also know by their French (UIAGM) or German (IVBV) acronyms and is the organization that sets the standard for mountain guiding the world over.

Olivia Race "Pinning" me at the AMGA meeting. There wasn't a plan for her to "pin" me, but I could hardly think of a more perfect person as Olivia and her husband John Race (owners of the Northwest Mountain School) have been incredibly influential in my guiding career while I worked toward my IFMGA/UIAGM certification.

 I was lucky enough to be the 99th American Mountain Guide to receive these honer. I started the process in Joshua Tree in March 2007 and while I had to make several sacrifices over nearly 10 years in order to take these courses and exams, I never felt the whole process wasn't completely worth-it.

It was a very emotional evening and felt so proud to call myself an "American Mountain Guide". It was also very nice to get a fair amount of free gear during my "Pinning"; Big thanks to Petzl, Arc'teryx and Adidas for hooking us up.

Climbing Tangerine Trip on El Capitan 2015 with Ryan O'Connell

Tangerine Trip, El Cap 2015

Ryan O'Connell, carrying heavy loads to the base. This was Ryan and I's third El Cap route together but it had been a while since we were down in the Valley together and we hadn't completed an El Cap route since 2008.

Ryan and I hadn't climbed an El Cap route together since 2008.

October 2015: Due to time constraints Ryan O'Connell and I flew down from Seattle to Sacramento and rented a car. We had always driven down in the past, but since both of use didn't have a lot of time we decided to fly-down instead. This worked surprisingly well (maybe that's obvious to others); after we flew down, bought all of our food in Sacramento and drove to the Valley. We left Seattle on like a 6am flight and rolled into the Valley in the early afternoon, having already bought all of our food.

We hiked our loads to the base of El Cap, we originally wanted to climb the North American Wall, but with two parties on it, plus nearby Pass-the-Pitons Pete attempting what would be a 25 day ascent of Tempest, and Steve "Shapoopee" Schneider soloing Sea of Dreams, we opted for T-Trip which had no-one on it, at least that we could see. However upon our arrival at the base of the Trip there was another party just starting up. This helped prompt us to take a rest day between hiking loads and "blasting off". I have never actually waited a day between hiking-and-blasting off before, but now I think its the way to go. After traveling down there and hiking loads, taking a whole day off just let us recharge our batteries and only increased our stoke to climb El Cap.

Ian Nicholson leading the second pitch of T-Trip on our first day on the route, Photo: Ryan O'Connell

After our rest day we hiked up our food and the last of our water, before fixing the first pitch. We slept at the base with the plan to "blast-off" in the morning. The alarm went off at 5:30am and it was still dark. After some breakfast pastries (AKA fancy Pop Tarts) we each traded off jugging the free-hanging line we had fixed the night before.

an Nicholson leading the Second Pitch of Tangerine Trip before the sun hit. Photo: Ryan O'Connell

I reached the top of pitch one first and self-belayed while Ryan took his turn on the free hanging jug. For me it was rather easy to "short-fix" this section because it started mostly with easy mid-5th class climbing and plenty of places to stand and feed slack through my GriGri with two hands.

Ryan O'Connell arrives at the top of pitch 2 after cleaning it on Tangerine Trip

We also derived a system of leading and following on Tangerine Trip. In the past we just sort of "winged" it and however felt the most stoked would lead the next pitch. However to more evening split the load of leading we decided we would try to climb 4-pitches each day, with Ryan and I leading 2-pitches in-a-row each. So one person would basically have the morning off, and one person would have the afternoon off.

Me on top (in Orange) at a small stance at the "Black Cat" belay while Ryan gets ready to release the haul bags.

Chris Mac's SUPERTOPO guidebook talks about belaying ~30ft higher out on the face above this corner where this photo is taken. This certainly offers the leader less rope drag, but Ryan was nice enough to let me "stand" on this small ledge, something my hips certainly appreciated.

Ryan leading pitch 4, looking down on me belaying in the "Black Cat" belay Photo:Ryan O'Connell

The lowest part of the wall is steep, but this is were the route gets radically STEEPER. I watched as Ryan aided up marginally tricky C2+ to get to the base of the roof. He didn't have to place much of his own gear on this pitch, especially the second half. This is because most of the section straight down below the roof has a ton of fixed gear, to bad it was such terrible mank.

Ryan leading Pitch 4 with me below at the "Black Cat Belay". Ryan would ascend straight the crack system he is in up to the roof and then diagonal downward following the roof system nearly to its end on the far right.

After a mix of tensions, down aiding, and pendulums Ryan reached the belay at the top of pitch-4. The wall was so steep the tensions/pendulums were slightly tricky because once I lowered him, his feet could only barely touch the wall. We did learn that pendulums were the key and fully the way to go (compared with down aiding) and he placed very little of our own gear. He would just swing hard, clip the fixed gear (then often back-it-up) and then lower and swing hard again to the next piece.

Ryan Hauling from the top of Pitch 4 with me cleaning. This is were the wall started to get VERY STEEP and would stay like that for the next 10 pitches. Photo: Tom Evans

The Wall was soooo steep here, I jugged up through the steep corner above the belay and was amazed at how poor so much of the fixed gear on this section was. It wasn't as bad as the Shield's Groove pitch, but it was pretty bad.

Me jugging pitch four.  I've done a lot of tricky cleaning on ascenders before but cleaning the downward traverse on pitch four certainly got my attention. All the gear in the downward diagonaling roof was soooo manky looking and if it popped I was looking at an epic swinging leader fall onto my ascenders. 

 I've done a lot of tricky cleaning on ascenders before but cleaning the downward traverse on pitch four certainly got my attention. All the gear in the downward diagonaling roof was soooo manky looking and if it popped I was looking at an epic swinging leader fall onto my ascenders.
As a result down-jugging the roof was one of the spicier and more physical big-wall following experiences I have ever had. I've jugged a lot of tricky-to-clean pitches, but these lower-outs were so long, I'd just lower back-out into space, pull the backside of my rope through the fixed piece and again jug free-hanging-in-space back up to the next piece, it was SUPER physical jugging and dare I say straight-up burly. I could certainly feel my biceps, particularly might right one when I reached the belay and was stoked that Ryan was leading the next pitch which had the reputation of being the crux of the route.

Happy to break out the portaledge for the day, and from here on out the wall is steep enough that we were able to haul our ledge open for the next 3 days until would would have to put it away only 2-pitches from the top. Here Ryan looks down on me as he leads pitch-5, one of the crux pitches of the route. Photo Ryan O'Connell.

We set the portaledge up which would make our belays for the next few days far more comfortable. Ryan took off up the overhanging and very diagonalling pitch. It was quite physical for him as the wall leaned away almost like a crashing wave in a sea of granite.

Ryan leading the outrageously steep 5th pitch. No camera tilt here, just look at the rope hanging straight down next to the profile of the nose. It was a spectacular place to spend the night.

After our night at the top of Pitch-5 we woke up to find a nearly 3ft long tear in the bed of our portaledge. This would actually get worse each night and begin ripping on both sides of the outside sleepers "bed".

Ryan woke up the next morning and despite having holes in the portaledge on either side of his torso, quickly racked up like a boss to lead the next two pitches (6 and 7).

Ryan halfway up the spectacular pitch 7, while I lounged comfortably on the portaledge, enjoying fantastic morning light on golden granite. Photo Tom Evans

Ryan nearly at the top of Pitch 7. He wished he wore free climbing shoes for the first half of this pitch, as it was pretty splitter and struggled slightly with his approach shoes. The "ledge" at the top of the pitch was nice, as any stance on the right side of El Cap, but you wouldn't want to bivi there without a portaledge.
 
This photo of Ryan Hauling Pitch 7 earned us Tom Evan's Elcapreport.com's photo of the day.

Ryan finishing his morning shift, happily hands over leading responsibility. It was the hottest day of our climb and we were both parched. The next pitch was the other "crux" (as it was the only other pitch rated C3) pitch and we wondered how it would go. Since Ryan lead pitch 5 hammerless I left the hammer in the bag and hoped for the best.

Me leading the awkward start to pitch eight. The start is funky traversing out to the edge of a very narrow ledge to reach the first bolt. The bolt is pathetically close as you teeter on this little ledge. It looks so easy, and was hardly hard, but Ryan laughed as it took me a moment to reach the bolt.

Tom Evans photo of me starting that same slightly awkward section at the start of pitch 8.

Reaching for the belay at the top of pitch 8. The free climbing wasn't too bad (~5.10b) to avoid the tricky C3 pin scars in the middle of the pitch, but the hooking/mandatory free climbing at the end of the pitch felt near impossible with the epic rope drag. It was truly horrible and I cursed myself for not minding it better after the pendulum.

Ryan cleaning the end of pitch eight while I organize the belay and the portaledge. I was so thirsty when I arrived at the belay I hauled as quickly as I could just to get into the water. Despite my rope-drag wows I was happy I didn't have to nail on the pitch and was able to free-climb almost the entire C3 section at a fairly moderate grade.

Me feeling hot and thirsty. pitch nine went mostly into the shade. This pitch wasn't too bad to lead but I had to take a fair amount of care to protect Ryan on the mostly traversing pitch and still keep enough cams for me to lead it. I ended up back-cleaning almost the whole first half of the pitch so Ryan wouldn't have to do almost any tricky jugging. there would have been several placements that would have been extremely difficult to clean with its traversing nature. It also saved me quite a few extra  .75-3" cams which were super nice to have later on the pitch and we only brought a double set of. Even then I free climbed the final traverse to the belay and Ryan was more or less forced too as well. This is one of the spots. Where we had a small stance for us to help organize our belay, but halfway up the pitch there was a pretty baller ledge. 



  Me leading the start of pitch 10 the next morning. Photo Ryan O'Connell

Hauling pitch nine was also very tricky with the portaledge open. We actually moved the bags and retied them into the middle of the haul line. Once in the middle of the line, I hauled while Ryan tensioned/lowered the bags out to keep the portaledge from getting even more destroyed on the slopping ledge below the pitch. While this took a fair amount of effort it was successful in keeping the ledge from getting trashed. We spend then spent night on pitch nine which was a nice place to camp for the night. There is a small 1+ foot deep ledge to help set the bags on and stand while getting things organized.

Me nearing the end of pitch 10 on Tangerine Trip.

The next day I had the morning leading block and lead up pitch 10 to start the day, It was longer than I expected and ate up so many small cams of all sizes. Near the top I even had to quickly lower down and back clean a handful of cams near the top just to finish the pitch. 

Ryan took over for the afternoon leading shift on what was now our third day of the route. Here he is leading pitches 12 (pictured above) and 13. Pitch 12 went quickly for him, it was a little tricky right off the belay but then that lead to a long rivet/bolt ladder which he cruised.

Looking across at Pass-the-Pitons Pete on Tempest during their 25 day ascent of the route.

Looking across El Cap at Pass-the-Pitons Pete during his 25 day ascent of Tempest.

Ryan and I organizing the belay on pitch-12. The second half of pitch 13 offered a fair bit of mellow free climbing but there is certainly some loose rock. Its worth-it to wear rock shoes for this pitch and we spent the our third night at pitch 13. We knew there was a chance of rain in the forecast for the following day so we wanted to sleep at pitch-13 which, which was completely sheltered in the event of rain (its under a HUGE roof).  That evening there was a fire that started down valley near Curry Village and with the small amounts of rain we received overnight made the valley incredibly smokey in the morning.

We woke up in the morning to find the smoke thickening as the fire had gotten worse and the light intermidate rain only adding to the problem. Ryan lead off with the smoke thickening, the start of pitch 13 proved awkward with good, but hard to place pieces deep in the back of a traversing flair. To motivate us to get off the wall that day even more were the portaledge tears which were getting a little ridcicular and with light drops of rain starting and stopping we knew we had to get off the wall today.

Ryan cruised past the flare, and sprinted up the bolt ladder for 160ft to the next belay.The bolt/rivet ladders were plentiful on the route and while they took away a little bit from the over-all climbing, we both still thoroughly enjoyed "The Trip".

My biceps were feeling extra soreon our fourth day and there were mini-lower-outs required on the steep wall on nearly every bolt that required a fair amount of upper body strength. I think I had tweaked my right arm on the first day on the downward traverse and now with four days on the wall they were letting me know.

 I was still super stoked to have the Portaledge open to relax and belay from for one last pitch. We both talked about what would happen if it starting raining harder (as luckily with the latest forecast it wasn't supposed to start now until that afternoon)? Could our portaledge really survive one more night. Ryan would actually "Sway" in the breeze because he was now only suspended like a hammock from the ends, (Yikes is right!!!)

Ryan lead pitch 15 which started with a bolt ladder to some funky moves before the route traversed slightly to the left. He took a while places a few small pieces and then before I knew it; I just heard him flying through the air and I felt the strong upward tough up the rope!!!

Ryan had pitched off and blown a cam he was standing on. He partially flipped over and even gave himself some rope burn. He fell about 20ft, hung for a moment, and then batman-ed his way back up the rope. I was impressed with Ryan: he slowed while he replaced the pieces that had pulled during his fall but then took off again making over-all quick work of the pitch. I meanwhile changed from cotton into capilene as the rain drops began to fall a little more frequent and a little heavier.

Ryan reached the top of pitch 15 and quickly shouted that he was off belay. I sucked up my strained biceps and attempted to jug the pitch as quickly as I could. About halfway up the pitch the angle of the rock flipped over and I could stand in my stirups again taking a tremendous amount of weight off my arms. This allowed me to make very quick work of the cleaning the traverse.

At the top of pitch 15 Ryan and I packed up the portaledge. The rain was getting a little more frequent but there was enough sun pocking throught to keep the C2 Hooks and 5.7R dry that started pitch 16. The 5.7 R really wasn't  bad at all. The protection was poor but the climbing more secure than I expected. It wasn't slabby/friction climbing at all. In fact it was near vertical but covered in nice edges as the beginning of the pitch started up a fragile flake that while difficult to protect was pretty easy to climb.  After the flake the pitch ended with a super fun corner that was mostly free climbing (easy 5.10) and C1 up a slowly steeping but overall slabby corner to one of the biggest ledges of the route.

Ryan jugged the pitch quickly now able to stand more on his feet as he ascended the rope. He wrestled with the haul bags several times, but couldn't stop smiling as we knew we were going to get off the wall today.

Ryan jugging the fantastic corner on the second half of pitch 16 on the second-to-last pitch of Tangerine Trip. The final pitch was wandery 5.6R, but mostly 5.0 slabs. Rather than the climbing the greatest care was more to keep from knocking rubble down on the rock-strewn slabs rather than having to try hard not-to-fall. I climbed up over the final slabs to were the ground was flat and searched for the most bomber tree I could find. I had to flip the rope over several trees so Ryan would be able to jug straight up. This proved a marginally challenging task with all the loose rock just sitting on slabs.

Once on top we realized we had made excellent time up the last four pitches and made it to the top around noon. After four days on the wall, nothing feels more awesome than walking on flat ground and taking your harness off.  We looked down and waved to my in-laws who had been watching the last few days from the meadow. We could see them and they waved back. I called my wife to say hello and we packed up.

Other than when I climbed the Nose-in-a-day, the descent off El Cap always sort-off sucks. Your bags are always heavier than you think and it always is slightly more tiring then you remembered.  It was fun descending El Cap together for now the third time, we stopped and talked about were we had topped out previously and were we had bivied on top of the rappels after our first ascent of El Cap together, when we climbed Zodiac in 2006, on the slabs were the bolts are at the top of the first rap.

On our hike down the clouds got darker and darker and just as we hit the road it started pouring. I left Ryan and our gear at the parking lot while I jogged back to El Cap meadow in what was a full-on down pour when I arrived.  Then the smoke got so bad, they closed the road and wouldn't let anyone drive because the visibility wasn't good enough. Eventually the rain lighted and the road was opened. What we both found interesting is now every time we have climbed El Cap together it has rained the next day.

Some of the tears in my portaledge. Each tear was "only" 2-3 feet long but there were four of them.

Luckily Luke and Runout Customs was able to sew a new bed onto my frame and he was even able to use a yellow color!!!

Skiing the Ortler Circuit in the South Tyrol region of Northern Italy

Two trips on skis around Mounte Cevedale on the Ortler Circuit with the Northwest Mountain School March 2015

Skiing down Vedretta di Cedec (the name of the glacier) below Mounte Cevedale (3769m) on our way down to the Pizzini hut

I was so excited when John and Olivia Race invited me to work an pair of  Ortler Circuit trips for their company The Northwest Mountain School.  I was slated to work with JR, Pete Keane and Nick Pope in March 2015. I felt incredibly lucky to get to work these trips because of how much experience they had not just in this region but in ski mountaineering traverses in the Alps in general.

Packing up to head to the Ortler, trying to squeeze EVERYTHING into a single ski bag and keep it under 50 lbs.

 The Ortler Circuit more-or-less circumnavigates Mounte Cevedale (3769m) one of the highst peaks in the region. There are several ways to do the traverse depending on stability, ski conditions, and group strengths which is nice to really adjust the trip to the groups strengths and desires.  There are also over a dozen possible side ski mountaineering objectives and side tours that are possible along the way.

The Forni Hut and the start (and end) of the Ortler Circuit. It is complete with amazing food and even fantastic espresso, showers and  WiFi.

After flying into Milan from Seattle I caught a series of Buses through the Downhill world cup skiing mecca of Bormio (and where all Ski Trab skis are made) before finally ending at the quite down of Santa Caterina Valfurvia. From here Nick and Pete Picked me up and drove me the 20 incredible windy minutes up to the Forni Hut and the start of the trip.

Pete Keane at the Branca Hut(2470m)

We met our group at the Forni hut and spent the night. After breakfast we woke up and started skinning toward the Branca Hut. Along the way we stopped to review Beacons, shoveling techniques and companion rescue and skiing as a group in-general. After a short (~1 hr) skin from the Forni we arrived at the Branca Hut. We checked in and dropped our extra gear in our rooms and went out for an afternoon ski tour up the Val Di Rossole

The view from the Branca hut of our ski objectives; San Matteo (3678m) and Pizzo Tresero (3594m) and the mega classic  ski tour down the couloir i the middle of the photo with the mcuh smaller Cimas Giacomo (3056m) on the right

 After dropping our extra equipment and "overnight gear" (AKA cotton t-shirt and silk sleep-sack) off we departed up the valley to attempt to ski a peak called San Matteo, ski a smaller peak called the  L'Isola Persa and finish via a couloir called Canalino Isola Persa or sometimes just called the Itinerario Classico (Classic Itinerary) because of its super classic status.

The Canalino Isola Persa; The Itinerario Classico

Pete Keane and the gang just getting onto the glacier on the Ghiaccaio dei Forni

 After a short ski downhill we skinned across the tight valley. There is a short steep section that must be negotiated while skinning but conditions were good enough that we didn't quite need ski-crampons.  Weather conditons were just okay so the group didn't quite get to top out San Matteo, instead turning around approximately 200m below the summit. We still enjoyed the descent with amazing views of the surrounding mountains.

Looking into the Couloir called Canalino Isola Persa on our first descent of the trip

This descent set us up perfect to reach to top of  L'Isola Persa to ski down the famous couloir called Canalino Isola Persa; the "Itinerario Classico". Everyone was very excited to ski this feature because it was so easily visible from the Branca hut.

Looking up the lowest part of the couloir that is Canalino Isola Persa (Itinerario Classico)

After getting to the bottom of the Canalino Isola Persa (Itinerario Classico)we skinned back-up to the hut for a few afternoon board games, coffee and just relaxing for a few hours before dinner.

The view from the Branca Hut with the Canalino Isola Persa (Itinerario Classico) easily visible in the middle of the window

Dinner was excellent and being in Italy as you would guess we ate fantastic red sause pasta with an excellent side salad and fresh baked bread.  Our goal for the next day would be to ski the NE face of Pizzo Tresero.

The ascent and descent route shown on Pizzo Tresero

We woke up early the next morning and ate a classic European-style breakfast at 6:00am. The hut was busy, but not too busy and there weren't any other groups with our same objective for the day which was nice.

We skied downhill from the hut again to start the day, this time with much nicer weather. We gained the main glacier and negated another steep section before the long constant ascent up the main glacier (Ghicciaio dei Forni).

Skinning on the Ghicciaio dei Forni below the summit of Pizzo Tresero

The same as the previous afternoon we got the the sub summit and conditions nearly completely whited out and we turned around again around 200m below the summit. At least this would be our last pour weather of the trip and we would have sunny sky's the next 5 days.

Skiing down good snow conditions on Pizzo Tresero as the weather slightly worsened for the afternoon. At least it was our last poor weather day.

After ripping skins we skied down the Ghicciaio dei Forni making our way back to the Branca hut for our second night. We made it back at a very reasonable time and watched the fierce weather blow by from the comfort of our hut.  More board games, expresso, and chatting with folks from around the world. 

We decended from the Branca hut until we were able to cut around into the Valle Di Cedec which was the next valley over

After spending two nights at the Branca hut the following day we ate an early breakfast and got packed up to head to the Schaubachutte on the other side of Cevedale in the German speaking area of South Tyrol Italy. There are several ways to get to the Schaubachutte but beacuse of the new snow overnight and sunny tempatures we were forced to go around and up the Pizzini Valley.

Skinning up the Valle Di Cedec with Pizzo Tresero and the area we had skied the last two days in the background

 We actually have to ass the Pizzini huton the way to the Schaubachutte but this way still involves summiting a peak called the Sulden Spitze 3376m and making a fabulous and long descent down the Sulden Ferner glacier to get to the the Schaubachhutte as well as a moderate technical ascent to get up to the Casati.

Pete Keane and Nick Pope with the impressive Gran Zebru 3851m (AKA Kong Spitz) in the background

 The entire skin up the valley is quite mellow until you get close to a ridge extended from Cevedale and the Sulden Spitze that you have to cross over where the Casati hut is perched.

You can just barely see the lift towers that lead to the Casati hut which can be a place to stop for lunch but wasn't open yet. We cross-over at the lowest point in the ridge just right of the center of the photo.

The final ~300ft up to the ridge required us to put our skis on our back and put crampons on. For several of our guests this was their first time every wearing crampons and using an ice axe so we had a solid instructional time before starting up.

Nearing the top of the ridge and the Casati hut with the Gran Zebru in the background.

While it was several of our guests first time wear crampons or using an ice axe, it is the perfect place to get used to adopting these new skills and tools. In-fact while there was a little hesitation and apprehension from several members after actually doing it they commented it was among the highlights of their trip.

The group on top of the ridge right next to the Casati Hut with the Gran Zebru in the Center and the Sulden Spitze (which we had to climb over) just out of view

Sadly the the Casati hut was closed still for the year and wouldn't open for another few weeks. While we don't normally spend the night here it can be a nice place to stop and eat lunch. 

On the Summit of the Sulden Spitze 3376m with the Gran Zebru in the background.

After a little break on top of the ridge we made the final 45-minute to hour long trudge up to the Summit of the Sulden Spitze. The weather was fantastic, not a cloud in the ski and totally windless. The group was pumped for the summit and enjoyed the views and such fantastic weather

Dropping in just off the top of the Sulden Spitze and onto the Sulden Ferner glacier were we were able to access the valley above the Schaubachhutte

After around 30 minutes on the summit we ripped our skins and skied down right off the top dropping onto the Sulden Ferner glacier on North side of the peak. Because its North Facing this glacier can hold snow for sometimes weeks after a storm and it proved true yet again with fantastic powder skiing.

On the descent down Sulden Ferner glacier to the the Schaubachhutte

On our way down the Sulden Ferner glacier the skiing was soooooo good we actually stopped and skinned back up for a quick "hot lap".

After makingt he monstuerous descent down to the Schaubachhutte we dropped our stuff, grabbed some coffee and road the lifts that are next to the hut for the final hour the resort was open sans packs which was nice. This Schaubachhutte was my personal favorite hut as its rarely crowded, there is WiFi, and the food and staff are excellent.  Unlike the previous few nights were we got prett eary starts with 6am breakfast, today on our way to the Marteller Hutte we would catch the lift to start the day getting a 3000+ foot elevation gain mechanically assisted start to the day.

Pete skiing down the upper portion of the Valle Madriccio on our way to our lunch time stop at the Zufallhutte.

We rode the lifts up to near the summit of Schontaufspitz (3325m) and skiied down crossing over a pass called the Passo del Madriccio (3125m. Just a 5 minute boot leads to the pass and then an increable long (over an hour) descent into the Valle Madriccio and eventually our lunch time stop at the Zufallhutte.

The group skiing down the upper Valle Madriccio just below the Passo del Madriccio

Lower down in the Valle Madriccio on our hour long descent to the Zufallhutte

Lunch at the Zufallhutte 2265m

After lunch at at the Zufallhutte 2265m, we skinned up the broad valley to the Marteller Hutte (2610m). The Zufallhutte is a prefect hut to take a break, its the right time of day and it provides a nice break before the ~2 hours or so of skinning to reach the Marteller.

The group arriving at the Marteller Hutte (2610m).

We arrived at the Marteller at a reasonable time and half of the groups stayed at the hut and the other half went out for an afternoon tour. The Marteller was another amazing hut with fantastic food (our groups favorite of the trip) and amazing views of Cevedale the objective for the following day.

Leaving eariy Leaveing early net

Looking up at Mount Cevedale the objective for the day.

The next day we got a very early start as its a fair long climb up to the high shoulder of Cevedale where we would hopefully cache our skis ~100m from the top and tag the summit.

The group travelling up the Vedretta del Cevedale glacier with the hut barely visible to the left of the back-most person in the group.

We woke up early, ate breakfast in the comfort of the hut and began the ascent of the Vedretta del Cevedale glacier.  The climb, while long is most very mellow.

Cannons high on the flanks on Mount Cevedale. These cannons were dragged here by Russian Prisoners up the glaciers in preparation for the World War I

Mt Cededale Ridge line was the original boarder between Austria and Italy and after World War I when the boarder was moved further north giving Italy a large portion of what-used to be Austria. This is why South Tyrol still speaks German and doesn't like the speak Italian. 

Taking a break on the upper Vedretta del Cevedale glacier around an hour or so away from the final summit pyramid with the Gran Zebru in the background.

It takes around 3 hours to get to the base of the summit pyramid, we left behind our ski gear, dawned crampons and ice axes and begin the ascent. Its quite exposed and the group was glade to be on a rope espeically for the final very exposed climb to the summit.

On the Summit of Mount (Cima) Cevedale (3757m)

We down climbed the final 150 or-so meters from the of Mount Cevedale back to our skis to make the highlight ski run down the Vedretta di Cedec glacier into the Pizzini Valley. 

Making the highlight ski run down the Vedretta di Cedec glacier into the Pizzini Valley, this shot is just below the summit pyramid.

We had excellent ski conditions and the group hooped and hollered as we enjoyed every turn with fantastic views of the whole Ortler region below us.

Another spectacular skiing shot of the group skiing on the Vedretta di Cedec glacier

The group taking a view (and leg) break on the way down the Vedretta di Cedec glacier on the way to the Pizzini Hutte.

More spectacular skiing below Cima Cevedale and the Gran Zebru (seen above).

After more than an hour of downhill skiing we arrived at the Pizzini hut. Our group arrived completely elated. While the group was a little tired, they were sad as we talked about how tomorrow would be the final day of our trip.

The Pizzini is Pete's favorite hut, the staff are so friendly and it's just an awesome hut to hangout in.

The group just hanging at the Pizzini Hut.

The group skinnning up the Vedr del Gran Zebru glacier.

After "sleeping-in" on our final day we woke up and packed our gear to go on one last ski tour before we would pick up our extra gear at the hut and head down valley to the Forni hut. 

One of our guests looking up at Mount (Cima) Cevedale and most of our ski descent from the previous day.

Our goal was to ski from the Col Pale Rosse (3379m) and ski down the Vedr del Gran Zebru glacier before returning back to the Pizzini Hut where we would pack up all of our gear and ski to the Forni in the afternoon.

Transitioning at Col Pale Rosse as I step out of my skis looking at Mount (Cima) Cevedale in the backgrounf

The final run of the trip down the Vedr del Gran Zebru glacier.