Rebecca and I go to Yosemite

 In October of 2010 Rebecca and I went to Yosemite Valley

The Captain, pretty much the sickest thing ever

Rebecca's Parents joined us for the trip, here they are in the Meadow

Beck's mom Taking a break after "Humping loads"

Rebecca Jugging up, Damn I am lucky to have her as my wife

Rebecca 2 pitches up the Aquarian wall (VI 5.7 C3) before KJ announced that he wasn't feeling it and that he didn't feel like he could go any farther.

KJ not feeling it so we bailed, not super stoked but everyone has to be feeling it to climb El cap. At least Rebecca and I would get take Rebecca on all the best Free climbing routes in the Valley.

Me leading up one of my favorite routes in the Valley, the Central Pillar of Frenzy (III 5.9) We started at 5pm to let the crowds and the head die down

At the top of one of the funnest 5.9 chimney's in the Valley

 

 Beck seconding pitch 2 on the Central Pillar of Frenzy on Middle Cathedral rock, Kj below

Me leading the Sweet 5.9 fingers second Pitch

Beck and KJ following pitch #2

Rebecca with El Cap looking super proud in the background

Me leading throw the third pitch, it looks hard getting through the roofs but there are many hidden hand and foot holds mixed with a perfect hand crack make it actually 5.7. There is a 4" 5.9 crack after it though.

Stepping around the roof

Rebecca following the 3ed OW pitch.

Our late start worked perfectly, we had the route to ourselves, it did mean we had to rap it in the Dark

Rebecca's Dad working on his trad skills

Having fun at the Swan slab

Rebecca getting some of her first Yosemite Trad leading in.

Thats my Beck

The Following Day we went to climb Serenity Crack (III 5.10d) to Sons of Yesterday (III 5.10a), when combined this is likely the best 5.10 in the Valley. Less than 5 minutes from the car and one continuous 1000ft crack system 8-10 pitches depending on how you break it up.  You almost don't even need any draws for this route its so straight up and down. We woke up early at 6:00am to beat the crowds and not only did we beat the crowds but no one else got on the route until noon when 6 parties converged all at once. We where rapping by the time they showed up at the base. Above is me on the infamous first pitch with 5.10a climbing with no real good pro for 30-40 feet.

Rebecca Following pitch one or two, so clean and no crowds?

Beck on pitch 3 of Serenity Crack on the Royal Arches formation

Rebecca following pitch 6 or 7

Rebecca climbing the awkward .75 sustained section on Sons of Yesterday

At one point on Sons of Yesterday you follow an Outer Spacesck crack of 2" for 90ft. the guide book recommends 5 #2's, we brought 2 with some big run outs but locker jams. Below towards the top of the route

2:24hr on Town Crier (VI 5.9 C2)w/Rebecca and Ryan

 In preparation of wanting to climb El cap with Rebecca I thought we go out for a test run on Town Crier on the upper wall of the Index town walls. Town Crier (IV 5.9 C2) is the most popular multi pitch aid route in Washington and rightly so, it has fun big features and it has a big wall feel. After a how to session Rebecca (A 5.11 climber) in the gym we thought Rebecca would be ready for the real deal. Above is Rebecca getting her systems dialed at home.

After climbing Liberty Crack in 4:15 I thought it would be fun to short fix town crier. Here Ryan O'Connell and Rebecca are jugging the 2nd pitch while I self belay on the third.

 Ryan getting to the belay to put me on, Beck jugging below him

 Ryan and Beck on "Smoke out ledge" at the top of Pitch 2

 Rebecca jugging pitch 3 after lowering out the pendulum

 Beck backing herself up on while jugging pitch 3

 Ryan and Rebecca hanging out on the top of pitch 5 (I think) cheering me on as it hasn't even been an hour and a half yet. There was a free climbing party on Davis-Holland who wanted to go first cause they thought we would be slow, by the time we where 5 pitches up they where only 1.5 and when we topped out they hadn't even finished 3.

 looking down pitch 5 on Town Crier (Again I think I am not totally sure)

The view looking down 650ft from the top of the 6th pitch

Ryan and Rebecca hanging out at the Belay

Rebecca and Ryan arriving at the top of the 6th pitch while I self belay the final 5.6 grunge 7th pitch. It's not pretty but hey you gotta top out the wall

Ian and his lovely wife Rebecca on the top of Town Crier and the Upper wall of Index. Surprisingly it only took us 2:24 from base to top, not bad for Rebecca's first big wall considering most folks could take that long on any one pitch. Rebecca was so cute she asked if that's 700ft and only took us 2:24 why do we need to spend the night on El Cap. That's a great question, maybe we don't

Ryan O'Connell being goofy on the raps down Heavens gate

Ryan and I rapping Heavens gate, for sure the best way down the upper wall.

The Passenger (IV 5.12a) on South Early Winter Spire

 The Face of South Early Winter Spire, certainly one of the most impressive walls in the Washington pass area if not the entire Cascades. It is around 800ft tall, very clean and quite steep. On the South face is a route called "The Passenger" (IV 5.12a). First climbed in 1991 By Bryan Burdo, Pete Doorish and Greg White. The passenger is widley considered the "Astroman" of Washington because of its sustained nature. Of its 9 pitches, only 1 isn't 5.10, 5.11 or 5.12.
 The breakdown of the pitches is P1: 5.11a, P2 5.11c, P3 5.11a/b, P4 5.12a, P5 5.10d, P6 5.10c/d, P7 5.11a, P8 5.10a/b and P9 5.7

 Graham Zimmerman ("Grammy" or "GZ") my long time partner in adventure. I had wanted to climb this route for a long time but had always felt a little intimidated by it. GZ was feeling super motivated and convinced me to just go get on it.  After a Ro-Sham-bo, I one and got the first pitch, I got the odd pitches, Graham got the evens.

 Me Leading the first pitch 5.11a

 Graham climbing into the 5.11c cross over roofs pitch, this pitch proved challenging

 Graham getting into the business of it,

 After I lead the amazing 5.11b corner third pitch, Graham leading pitch 4 pitch 5.11a slab to a 5.10b run out mantle to a short but fierce 5.12a boulder problem pulling a small roof.

 Graham getting ready for the Mantle

Grammy taking us up the final 5.7 pitch

Kearney-Thomas Route (III+ 5.11b FFA or 2nd? 3ed?), Big Kangaroo

Above is Graham on the approach up the Kangaroo Valley. Because of the of the sub-zero temps in the shade Graham Zimmerman and decided to choose something sunny. We had heard the Kearney -Thomas on the South Face of Big Kangaroo hadn't been freed, so after feeling really strong on the Passenger on South Early Winter Spire the previous day we thought we'd have a go. Jason Broman and I had blow the approach a few weeks prior but at least now I had it figured out. if anyone else goes to do this, don't leave anything at the base of the route, its nearly a solid hour out of the way to get back to the base.

Graham Zimmerman approaching the massive South of Big Kangaroo. Its quite an impressive wall, its around 800ft tall and gets all day sun.

Grammy leading the first pitch

Grammy leading the third OW pitch which starts as a burly chimney. The start isn't super difficult but protection is hard to arrange is is slightly sketchy behind chock stones.

Grammy Grunting his way through it. At the top of the Chimney the route breaks right into a steep fun fist crack.

Graham freeing pitch 5 the first of the two aid pitch at 5.11b. It was a steep .75 sized crack that was pumpy but took excellent gear. The corner above was easier but still a little in your face.

Ian free climbing the 7th pitch, Also one of the aid pitches. We are not sure if this route may have been freed once or multiple times, we thought this pitch checked in at 5.11a/b. Short but powerful.

Grammy tunneling up to the final ledge which leads to the summit