The Southern Man (IV 5.12a or 5.10a C1)

The Southern Man (IV 5.12a or 5.9 C1) was put up by Mark Allen, Joel Kauffman, and Leaghan Falley in August of 2008 at 5.9+ C1 and Freed by Bryan Burdo and Bobby??? in Sept of 2009 at 5.12a. Bryan spent 3 days cleaning the aid pitches and called them so of the best free climbing at the Pass, this was something I had to check out. The route follows the normal Direct East Buttress (DEB) of South Early Winter Spire (SEWS) for the first 4 pitches, then when the DEB goes right on a bolt ladder, The Southern Man breaks out left on a series of corners, going up a 130' 5.10a pitch, then the first ascensionest did a 105ft aid pitch followed by a 195ft aid pitch, Bryan Burdo broke it up (as most free climbers will likey do) into 3 "hard" pitches, each around 100ft long and all stopping at small stances.

 I hiked up to do the route with Tino Villanueva on Sept 29th, the day before my birthday (Yeah!!!!). We had just climbed SEWS less than 12 hrs early completing the Liberty Traverse the previous day. We where stoked to climb in the sun!!!!

 Tino starting up the first pitch of the DEB, Tino lead the first block, climbing the first 4 pitches in 2 pitches (with a fair amount of simul-climbing) with each pitch averaging about 250ft. Way to go Tino 

 Looking up at the corners heading up and left that marks the point where the Southern Man leaves the DEB.

 Tino following pitch 5 (5.10a) which was really fun climbing on Solid Rock. Tino has a pretty heavy pack on. We went heavier than we needed to (In retrospect) because of the cold temperatures of the previous day we brought a ton of cloths, most of which we didn't use while we were in the sun.

 Me starting up the 5.12a pitch (Stoked to have no pack on, thanks Tino!!!), I made some attempts to free climb this pitch, but certainly ended up aiding on some gear, its pretty incredible, super splitter, steep and sustained, 105ft, 5.12a, bring lots of finger and small finger sized pieces and some med sized nuts, there is a nut fixed by BB at the crux, leave it, you'll be stoked it's there, belay and the next takes 4" piece, leads to a small stance.

   Tino had a heavy pack (freaking heavy, WTF did we have!!!) and claimed he hadn't been climbing enough (plus too much guiding, though he almost sent Rainy day woman (5.12a) a couple days after this trip). So after some talk back and forth to save time, to stay out of the burtal shade and to prepare for our single day push of T-Trip in mid to late October he decided to jug the harder pitches, since he was jugging, I might as well short fix to save time. After Tino arrived at the anchor and put me on belay I tried to free climb as much as possible  but certainly aided on some gear. I'd like to come back when climbing in the shade wasn't miserable and try to send this thing, it really is spectacular, the route might not be as sustained as the passenger, but these three pitches pack a punch. The route is a super splitter 5 stars for sure. The short fixing was fun and it was good to move quickly up steep terrain. The three crux pitches are Steep and go at 5.12a, 5.11b and 5.11b and final short 5.9 section on a long pitch brings you near the summit 15 feet from where the DEB tops out. The route is also good for folks who still want a 5.10a C1 aid route, the aid is straight forward and the wall still steep and clean.

Me climbing on the 8th pitch