Skiing the Ortler Circuit in the South Tyrol region of Northern Italy

Two trips on skis around Mounte Cevedale on the Ortler Circuit with the Northwest Mountain School March 2015

Skiing down Vedretta di Cedec (the name of the glacier) below Mounte Cevedale (3769m) on our way down to the Pizzini hut

I was so excited when John and Olivia Race invited me to work an pair of  Ortler Circuit trips for their company The Northwest Mountain School.  I was slated to work with JR, Pete Keane and Nick Pope in March 2015. I felt incredibly lucky to get to work these trips because of how much experience they had not just in this region but in ski mountaineering traverses in the Alps in general.

Packing up to head to the Ortler, trying to squeeze EVERYTHING into a single ski bag and keep it under 50 lbs.

 The Ortler Circuit more-or-less circumnavigates Mounte Cevedale (3769m) one of the highst peaks in the region. There are several ways to do the traverse depending on stability, ski conditions, and group strengths which is nice to really adjust the trip to the groups strengths and desires.  There are also over a dozen possible side ski mountaineering objectives and side tours that are possible along the way.

The Forni Hut and the start (and end) of the Ortler Circuit. It is complete with amazing food and even fantastic espresso, showers and  WiFi.

After flying into Milan from Seattle I caught a series of Buses through the Downhill world cup skiing mecca of Bormio (and where all Ski Trab skis are made) before finally ending at the quite down of Santa Caterina Valfurvia. From here Nick and Pete Picked me up and drove me the 20 incredible windy minutes up to the Forni Hut and the start of the trip.

Pete Keane at the Branca Hut(2470m)

We met our group at the Forni hut and spent the night. After breakfast we woke up and started skinning toward the Branca Hut. Along the way we stopped to review Beacons, shoveling techniques and companion rescue and skiing as a group in-general. After a short (~1 hr) skin from the Forni we arrived at the Branca Hut. We checked in and dropped our extra gear in our rooms and went out for an afternoon ski tour up the Val Di Rossole

The view from the Branca hut of our ski objectives; San Matteo (3678m) and Pizzo Tresero (3594m) and the mega classic  ski tour down the couloir i the middle of the photo with the mcuh smaller Cimas Giacomo (3056m) on the right

 After dropping our extra equipment and "overnight gear" (AKA cotton t-shirt and silk sleep-sack) off we departed up the valley to attempt to ski a peak called San Matteo, ski a smaller peak called the  L'Isola Persa and finish via a couloir called Canalino Isola Persa or sometimes just called the Itinerario Classico (Classic Itinerary) because of its super classic status.

The Canalino Isola Persa; The Itinerario Classico

Pete Keane and the gang just getting onto the glacier on the Ghiaccaio dei Forni

 After a short ski downhill we skinned across the tight valley. There is a short steep section that must be negotiated while skinning but conditions were good enough that we didn't quite need ski-crampons.  Weather conditons were just okay so the group didn't quite get to top out San Matteo, instead turning around approximately 200m below the summit. We still enjoyed the descent with amazing views of the surrounding mountains.

Looking into the Couloir called Canalino Isola Persa on our first descent of the trip

This descent set us up perfect to reach to top of  L'Isola Persa to ski down the famous couloir called Canalino Isola Persa; the "Itinerario Classico". Everyone was very excited to ski this feature because it was so easily visible from the Branca hut.

Looking up the lowest part of the couloir that is Canalino Isola Persa (Itinerario Classico)

After getting to the bottom of the Canalino Isola Persa (Itinerario Classico)we skinned back-up to the hut for a few afternoon board games, coffee and just relaxing for a few hours before dinner.

The view from the Branca Hut with the Canalino Isola Persa (Itinerario Classico) easily visible in the middle of the window

Dinner was excellent and being in Italy as you would guess we ate fantastic red sause pasta with an excellent side salad and fresh baked bread.  Our goal for the next day would be to ski the NE face of Pizzo Tresero.

The ascent and descent route shown on Pizzo Tresero

We woke up early the next morning and ate a classic European-style breakfast at 6:00am. The hut was busy, but not too busy and there weren't any other groups with our same objective for the day which was nice.

We skied downhill from the hut again to start the day, this time with much nicer weather. We gained the main glacier and negated another steep section before the long constant ascent up the main glacier (Ghicciaio dei Forni).

Skinning on the Ghicciaio dei Forni below the summit of Pizzo Tresero

The same as the previous afternoon we got the the sub summit and conditions nearly completely whited out and we turned around again around 200m below the summit. At least this would be our last pour weather of the trip and we would have sunny sky's the next 5 days.

Skiing down good snow conditions on Pizzo Tresero as the weather slightly worsened for the afternoon. At least it was our last poor weather day.

After ripping skins we skied down the Ghicciaio dei Forni making our way back to the Branca hut for our second night. We made it back at a very reasonable time and watched the fierce weather blow by from the comfort of our hut.  More board games, expresso, and chatting with folks from around the world. 

We decended from the Branca hut until we were able to cut around into the Valle Di Cedec which was the next valley over

After spending two nights at the Branca hut the following day we ate an early breakfast and got packed up to head to the Schaubachutte on the other side of Cevedale in the German speaking area of South Tyrol Italy. There are several ways to get to the Schaubachutte but beacuse of the new snow overnight and sunny tempatures we were forced to go around and up the Pizzini Valley.

Skinning up the Valle Di Cedec with Pizzo Tresero and the area we had skied the last two days in the background

 We actually have to ass the Pizzini huton the way to the Schaubachutte but this way still involves summiting a peak called the Sulden Spitze 3376m and making a fabulous and long descent down the Sulden Ferner glacier to get to the the Schaubachhutte as well as a moderate technical ascent to get up to the Casati.

Pete Keane and Nick Pope with the impressive Gran Zebru 3851m (AKA Kong Spitz) in the background

 The entire skin up the valley is quite mellow until you get close to a ridge extended from Cevedale and the Sulden Spitze that you have to cross over where the Casati hut is perched.

You can just barely see the lift towers that lead to the Casati hut which can be a place to stop for lunch but wasn't open yet. We cross-over at the lowest point in the ridge just right of the center of the photo.

The final ~300ft up to the ridge required us to put our skis on our back and put crampons on. For several of our guests this was their first time every wearing crampons and using an ice axe so we had a solid instructional time before starting up.

Nearing the top of the ridge and the Casati hut with the Gran Zebru in the background.

While it was several of our guests first time wear crampons or using an ice axe, it is the perfect place to get used to adopting these new skills and tools. In-fact while there was a little hesitation and apprehension from several members after actually doing it they commented it was among the highlights of their trip.

The group on top of the ridge right next to the Casati Hut with the Gran Zebru in the Center and the Sulden Spitze (which we had to climb over) just out of view

Sadly the the Casati hut was closed still for the year and wouldn't open for another few weeks. While we don't normally spend the night here it can be a nice place to stop and eat lunch. 

On the Summit of the Sulden Spitze 3376m with the Gran Zebru in the background.

After a little break on top of the ridge we made the final 45-minute to hour long trudge up to the Summit of the Sulden Spitze. The weather was fantastic, not a cloud in the ski and totally windless. The group was pumped for the summit and enjoyed the views and such fantastic weather

Dropping in just off the top of the Sulden Spitze and onto the Sulden Ferner glacier were we were able to access the valley above the Schaubachhutte

After around 30 minutes on the summit we ripped our skins and skied down right off the top dropping onto the Sulden Ferner glacier on North side of the peak. Because its North Facing this glacier can hold snow for sometimes weeks after a storm and it proved true yet again with fantastic powder skiing.

On the descent down Sulden Ferner glacier to the the Schaubachhutte

On our way down the Sulden Ferner glacier the skiing was soooooo good we actually stopped and skinned back up for a quick "hot lap".

After makingt he monstuerous descent down to the Schaubachhutte we dropped our stuff, grabbed some coffee and road the lifts that are next to the hut for the final hour the resort was open sans packs which was nice. This Schaubachhutte was my personal favorite hut as its rarely crowded, there is WiFi, and the food and staff are excellent.  Unlike the previous few nights were we got prett eary starts with 6am breakfast, today on our way to the Marteller Hutte we would catch the lift to start the day getting a 3000+ foot elevation gain mechanically assisted start to the day.

Pete skiing down the upper portion of the Valle Madriccio on our way to our lunch time stop at the Zufallhutte.

We rode the lifts up to near the summit of Schontaufspitz (3325m) and skiied down crossing over a pass called the Passo del Madriccio (3125m. Just a 5 minute boot leads to the pass and then an increable long (over an hour) descent into the Valle Madriccio and eventually our lunch time stop at the Zufallhutte.

The group skiing down the upper Valle Madriccio just below the Passo del Madriccio

Lower down in the Valle Madriccio on our hour long descent to the Zufallhutte

Lunch at the Zufallhutte 2265m

After lunch at at the Zufallhutte 2265m, we skinned up the broad valley to the Marteller Hutte (2610m). The Zufallhutte is a prefect hut to take a break, its the right time of day and it provides a nice break before the ~2 hours or so of skinning to reach the Marteller.

The group arriving at the Marteller Hutte (2610m).

We arrived at the Marteller at a reasonable time and half of the groups stayed at the hut and the other half went out for an afternoon tour. The Marteller was another amazing hut with fantastic food (our groups favorite of the trip) and amazing views of Cevedale the objective for the following day.

Leaving eariy Leaveing early net

Looking up at Mount Cevedale the objective for the day.

The next day we got a very early start as its a fair long climb up to the high shoulder of Cevedale where we would hopefully cache our skis ~100m from the top and tag the summit.

The group travelling up the Vedretta del Cevedale glacier with the hut barely visible to the left of the back-most person in the group.

We woke up early, ate breakfast in the comfort of the hut and began the ascent of the Vedretta del Cevedale glacier.  The climb, while long is most very mellow.

Cannons high on the flanks on Mount Cevedale. These cannons were dragged here by Russian Prisoners up the glaciers in preparation for the World War I

Mt Cededale Ridge line was the original boarder between Austria and Italy and after World War I when the boarder was moved further north giving Italy a large portion of what-used to be Austria. This is why South Tyrol still speaks German and doesn't like the speak Italian. 

Taking a break on the upper Vedretta del Cevedale glacier around an hour or so away from the final summit pyramid with the Gran Zebru in the background.

It takes around 3 hours to get to the base of the summit pyramid, we left behind our ski gear, dawned crampons and ice axes and begin the ascent. Its quite exposed and the group was glade to be on a rope espeically for the final very exposed climb to the summit.

On the Summit of Mount (Cima) Cevedale (3757m)

We down climbed the final 150 or-so meters from the of Mount Cevedale back to our skis to make the highlight ski run down the Vedretta di Cedec glacier into the Pizzini Valley. 

Making the highlight ski run down the Vedretta di Cedec glacier into the Pizzini Valley, this shot is just below the summit pyramid.

We had excellent ski conditions and the group hooped and hollered as we enjoyed every turn with fantastic views of the whole Ortler region below us.

Another spectacular skiing shot of the group skiing on the Vedretta di Cedec glacier

The group taking a view (and leg) break on the way down the Vedretta di Cedec glacier on the way to the Pizzini Hutte.

More spectacular skiing below Cima Cevedale and the Gran Zebru (seen above).

After more than an hour of downhill skiing we arrived at the Pizzini hut. Our group arrived completely elated. While the group was a little tired, they were sad as we talked about how tomorrow would be the final day of our trip.

The Pizzini is Pete's favorite hut, the staff are so friendly and it's just an awesome hut to hangout in.

The group just hanging at the Pizzini Hut.

The group skinnning up the Vedr del Gran Zebru glacier.

After "sleeping-in" on our final day we woke up and packed our gear to go on one last ski tour before we would pick up our extra gear at the hut and head down valley to the Forni hut. 

One of our guests looking up at Mount (Cima) Cevedale and most of our ski descent from the previous day.

Our goal was to ski from the Col Pale Rosse (3379m) and ski down the Vedr del Gran Zebru glacier before returning back to the Pizzini Hut where we would pack up all of our gear and ski to the Forni in the afternoon.

Transitioning at Col Pale Rosse as I step out of my skis looking at Mount (Cima) Cevedale in the backgrounf

The final run of the trip down the Vedr del Gran Zebru glacier.