Sunday, October 10, 2010

Rebecca and I go to Yosemite

 In October of 2010 Rebecca and I went to Yosemite Valley
The Captain, pretty much the sickest thing ever
Rebecca's Parents joined us for the trip, here they are in the Meadow
Beck's mom Taking a break after "Humping loads"
Rebecca Jugging up, Damn I am lucky to have her as my wife
Rebecca 2 pitches up the Aquarian wall (VI 5.7 C3) before KJ announced that he wasn't feeling it and that he didn't feel like he could go any farther.
KJ not feeling it so we bailed, not super stoked but everyone has to be feeling it to climb El cap. At least Rebecca and I would get take Rebecca on all the best Free climbing routes in the Valley.
Me leading up one of my favorite routes in the Valley, the Central Pillar of Frenzy (III 5.9) We started at 5pm to let the crowds and the head die down
At the top of one of the funnest 5.9 chimney's in the Valley
 
 Beck seconding pitch 2 on the Central Pillar of Frenzy on Middle Cathedral rock, Kj below
Me leading the Sweet 5.9 fingers second Pitch
Beck and KJ following pitch #2
Rebecca with El Cap looking super proud in the background
Me leading throw the third pitch, it looks hard getting through the roofs but there are many hidden hand and foot holds mixed with a perfect hand crack make it actually 5.7. There is a 4" 5.9 crack after it though.
Stepping around the roof
Rebecca following the 3ed OW pitch.
Our late start worked perfectly, we had the route to ourselves, it did mean we had to rap it in the Dark
Rebecca's Dad working on his trad skills
Having fun at the Swan slab
Rebecca getting some of her first Yosemite Trad leading in.
Thats my Beck
The Following Day we went to climb Serenity Crack (III 5.10d) to Sons of Yesterday (III 5.10a), when combined this is likely the best 5.10 in the Valley. Less than 5 minutes from the car and one continuous 1000ft crack system 8-10 pitches depending on how you break it up.  You almost don't even need any draws for this route its so straight up and down. We woke up early at 6:00am to beat the crowds and not only did we beat the crowds but no one else got on the route until noon when 6 parties converged all at once. We where rapping by the time they showed up at the base. Above is me on the infamous first pitch with 5.10a climbing with no real good pro for 30-40 feet.

Rebecca Following pitch one or two, so clean and no crowds?
Beck on pitch 3 of Serenity Crack on the Royal Arches formation
Rebecca following pitch 6 or 7
Rebecca climbing the awkward .75 sustained section on Sons of Yesterday
At one point on Sons of Yesterday you follow an Outer Spacesck crack of 2" for 90ft. the guide book recommends 5 #2's, we brought 2 with some big run outs but locker jams. Below towards the top of the route

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