Monday, October 4, 2010

Kearney-Thomas Route (III+ 5.11b FFA or 2nd? 3ed?), Big Kangaroo

Above is Graham on the approach up the Kangaroo Valley. Because of the of the sub-zero temps in the shade Graham Zimmerman and decided to choose something sunny. We had heard the Kearney -Thomas on the South Face of Big Kangaroo hadn't been freed, so after feeling really strong on the Passenger on South Early Winter Spire the previous day we thought we'd have a go. Jason Broman and I had blow the approach a few weeks prior but at least now I had it figured out. if anyone else goes to do this, don't leave anything at the base of the route, its nearly a solid hour out of the way to get back to the base.
Graham Zimmerman approaching the massive South of Big Kangaroo. Its quite an impressive wall, its around 800ft tall and gets all day sun.
Grammy leading the first pitch
Grammy leading the third OW pitch which starts as a burly chimney. The start isn't super difficult but protection is hard to arrange is is slightly sketchy behind chock stones.
Grammy Grunting his way through it. At the top of the Chimney the route breaks right into a steep fun fist crack.
Graham freeing pitch 5 the first of the two aid pitch at 5.11b. It was a steep .75 sized crack that was pumpy but took excellent gear. The corner above was easier but still a little in your face.
Ian free climbing the 7th pitch, Also one of the aid pitches. We are not sure if this route may have been freed once or multiple times, we thought this pitch checked in at 5.11a/b. Short but powerful.
Grammy tunneling up to the final ledge which leads to the summit

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