Sunday, September 26, 2010

4:15 hrs on Liberty Crack (V 5.10 C2+) Liberty Bell

Jason Broman and I drove up to the pass to try and climb the Liberty crack as fast as we could. I got the hang of Short fixing while climbing the Nose in a day last fall with Graham Zimmerman and wanted to try it on Liberty Bell. I hadn't climbed the Liberty Crack (V 5.10 C2+) in nearly 8 years and needed to get back on it. I knew the Roger Strong had the speed record at 6 hours car to car. I didn't think Jason and I would have any hope of beating that so we just tried to be effecent. Without even realizing it we did the route 6:25 car to car.  Liberty Crack is certainly one of the best routes at Washington pass
Hear I am starting out the first pitch with the Lithuanian lip above me. The first pitch was a little wet but I still free climbed nearly all of it, pulling only on the fixed pins and a nut or two. The first pitch is C2 or 5.11a/b or 5.10 C1.
Me Self belaying out the Lithuanian Lip C2
Above: Me farther along on the Lithuanian Lip, Jason Broman jugging pitch 4, 5 or 6, they all went so fast.
Me leading out the 4th pitch, a sweet 5.10a hand and fist crack

Above Jason flying on the Juggs and below us on the summit only 5 hours after leaving the car Jason says he didn't even feel like we just climbed a grade V route let alone a 1200ft route, we couldn't believe how fast it went down, so fun!!!!!

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