Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Rebel Yell (III 5.10b) Chanti Spire

 After attending Graham Zimmerman's slide show the night before Ryan and I (Who hadn't climbed together nearly all year, which is rare) decided to go up to Chanti Spire in the Wine Spires and climb Rebel Yell (III 5.10b), famous for its upper OW pitches. Ryan who had been riding a desk most of the summer claimed he was out of shape but we still made it to the base in around 3 hours. We did bring boots and crampons but not axe because we heard it was icy and boy was it icy. The snow getting up to the base just after crossing Burgundy Col was bullet hard, it was worth the weight after all.
 Ryan O'Connell on the last part of the approach. It had been snowing the last few days leading up to this and we were stoked to be in the Sun!!!!
 A newer variation start on Mountain Protect is the new way to go, instead of climbing the 5.9 chimney which is a little dirty then traversing left to the main crack system. You just start at the bottom of the Crack system via a broken but clean 5.9 pitch and then a splitter 5.10b finger crack pitch which Ryan is pictured on above.
 Ryan on the famous headwall 4-5" crack. This actually wasn't the crux nor was it very sustain, the crux was actually at the very start of the pitch and was more awkward than hard with funky jamming
 Ryan on the same amazing pitch, we went into the shade in the afternoon and it was cold
 4" splitter-ville
We each led to the tiny summit individually, it was small, exposed and cool.

No comments:

Post a Comment