Gato Negro (IV+ 5.10d) With Rebecca

On Rebecca and I's third day in the Wine Spires we decided to go and Climb Gato Negro (IV+ 5.10d) on the Whine Spire. The Whine Spire is a sub-peak of on the East face of Silver Star. Gato Negro is a newer route first climbed by Larry Goldie and Scott Johnston in 2001. It has mostly awesome pitches with a few looser sections. The route is certainly worth doing but it is "kinda in your face" for most of the route.  Adding to that is all the pitches on this route are long, with many around 180-190ft with none shorter than 150ft.

Rebecca approaching the base. This patch of snow seems to always be here and can be a little tricky to get across. There also some scree moats which are a pain to get across.

Me leading up the spectacular first pitch. Don't start on the easier looking chimney around the corner and to the right. This pitch is even better than it looks with many excellent finger locks and great jamming. 

 Rebecca following the first pitch

Rebecca cruising up the 1.5 pitch getting to the base of the 5.10a "Sport" pitch. 

Rebecca following pitch #2

 

Rebecca following the super fun bolted 5.10a bolted face climbing on pitch #2. The climbing is never that hard but sometimes feels committing on fragile feeling flakes.  

 

 Rebecca following pitch 8, a cool rising traverse under a green roof. The rock gets a little loose and hard to protect toward the end of the pitch.

Me climbing the final awesome 11th pitch. A few committing moves down low lead to splitter cracks on this final head wall.

A close up on the same pitch

Making a few raps over the top leads into a steep and extremely loose gully. being mid September it got dark early. I had descended this gully once before and it was a little unsavory, lots of 4th class loose down climbing, a few rappels, stuff falling down everywhere. Well we better hurry it gets dark soon.

Trying to battle our way down this complex extremely loose gully in the dark was hard and I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. It took us nearly 3 hours in the Dark to work our way down it and back to the Base.

Rebecca wishing we where down, back in camp. We where hoping to hike out that night and drive to Bend for a Wedding, man its going to be a long drive tomorrow.

Me wishing we where back in Camp

So happy to be back in camp, mid-night. I guess thats what happens when you leave after 7:30 in hopes of it getting warmer.

We wished we could sleep in but we had to pack up, hike out and drive 9 hours to Bend Oregon.

Rebecca on the hike out. Looking as cute as ever. Below she crosses Early Winters creek before the final up hill hike back to the car. Upon reaching the car we drove 9 hours to Bend for Chad and Diana's Wedding. We where kinda worked on the Drive.