Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Burgundy Spire, Ultra Mega OK (III+ 5.11a)

After a casual 7am wake up at our camp at Burgundy Col, we descending thto the edge of the Silver Star Glacier,  putting crampons on our approach shoes and daggering rocks in the semi-steep snow, making our way over to the East face of Burgundy


 The start of the first pitch, Super clean Splitter granite, too bad the whole route isn't this clean, the rock is as a whole pretty good
 Looking down at Andy Dahlen while climbing up the first pitch
 Andy Following the first fantastic pitch, Turns out Action Potential starts like 10ft to the left.
 Andy climbing a short and awkward chimney to a .75-2" splitter crack, it wasn't even that dirty this route is going to be awesome
 Andy and I trying to figure out where the third pitch goes?
 Looking down the 3ed pitch, this pitch did have some loose blocks and flakes and was quite dirty
 Andy Climbing up to the Crux, changing corner overhanging roofs pitch, turns out we should have climbed this section slightly to our right in a thinner seam

  Where do we go part 2, the topo said a crack, we climbed a face to a corner below the ridge crest, is this the way? Turns out the route did go through the roofs right above us. After the first 4 pitches the topo, was harder to follow or are 5 big days where catching up to us.
 Andy hitting the Ridge, where did we go, where did the route go? At last I would climb Action Potential a few days later and rap in and top rope the proper way. Guess I should talk to Mark Allen.
 On the big ledge that separates Piasano pinnacle from Burgundy, having fun, but a little frustrated at the route finding, lichen covered faces and dirty filled cracks. Did you climb the route or where we lost
Ah the last 250ft vertical hike back up to the Car, always a pain

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