Tuesday, September 27, 2011

The First Amendment (IV 5.11a) on the Le Petit Chaval


The First Amendment on the Le Petit Chaval just east of Washington pass (Red #2 on first photo) is a route I put up with Chris McNamara in 2009. Because we didn't know if it would go or not I didn't bother to draw a topo of the route along the way.  So on Sept 17 2011 I went back with my friend Andy Dahlen and to add a few bolts (4 to Belays and 1 lead bolt) and draw a topo.
 The second photo is of Andy starting the 3ed pitch of the route, one of the dirtiest for sure. While the route has some dirt filled cracks, it doesn't have much lichen and has very high quality rock.
  Andy Dahlen after putting in the two bolt anchor at the top of pitch three, these where his 5 and 6th bolts he has ever placed, alllll little Andy is growing up.
 Andy Dahlen climbing pitch 5 with a sweet view of the Liberty Bell group, we nearly bailed here as it started snowing, but after debating for a few minutes I grabbed the rack and kept going,  it did kept snowing, but never very hard.

 Andy Following the 5.10d 6th pitch, this pitch was the scariest in the snow because it is very delicate and traverses many steep sections and pulls two roofs protected by little gear and some small run out.
  Andy places the one lead bolt on pitch 7. The 5.11a crux is right of the belay and I broke a small foot hold while climbing it and landed on Chris McNamara's head.  The crux isn't that long, around 15 feet or so but it doesn't take the best pro so I decided to put on lead bolt in.
Andy and I at the top of pitch 9 where the First Amendment joins the Spontaneity Arete, from here its 2 more pitches to the top. Below are two pages that are the topo for the First Amendment (IV 5.11a)

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