Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Mojo Rising (III 5.11b C1+) & the Chockstone route

  Me climbing the first 5.11b bolted pitch on Mojo Rising (III 5.11b C1+) on South Early Winter Spire
 After Short fixing here I am starting up pitch two's C1+ aid section on Mojo Rising
 Ryan O'Connell at the Belay at the top of the first pitch, our first time climbing together of the year
 Ryan O'Connell Jugging the first pitch
 Eating Ryan's famous Burritos on the Summit of South Early Winter Spire




 On Sept 4th Ryan O'Connell and I went to Climb Mojo Rising (III 5.11b C1+) on South Early Winter Spire

   We started on Mojo Rising instead of the the Choke stone route because it was a cold day and would go into the sun before the Choke stone (II 5.7) route. The first pitch of Mojo Rising is a 5.11b pummy and physical 25m bolted pitch. There are no bolts for the first 25 ft of 5.7 but  once the difficulty begins it rarely lets up and most places where you need a bolt, they appear. 
 This was Ryan and my first time climbing together of the year, he had just been so busy with work we hadn’t been able to get out climbing together the whole year.  We decided to short fix the start of the route because it was after all a “mini-bigwall”.  After the first 5.11b pitch I fixed the rope and began self-belaying, ah what fun it is to move in the mountains so efficiently.  After a few fixed pitons and bolts the second pitch was very thin, tricky C1+ but never difficult. The third pitch started with some free climbing then there was some more C1 and then a fun 5.10a splitter crack.
 I briefly got us off route because I didn’t traverse left around the corner but this was quickly resolved. The 5th pitch was one of the best, a sustain 5.9 in a large corner. After one more easier pitch we joined the Southwest Rib of South Early Winter Spire at the top of its pitch 6 and simul-climbed to the top.
 After weaving through 8-10 other parties on the South Arete we down climbed back to the bottom.

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