Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Rampage (III 5.10d) on Piasano Pinnacle

  On Sept 19th 2011 Andy Dahlen and I hiked up to Burgundy Col, set up camp and climbed Rampage (III 5.10d) on our first day. We hiked up to the Col in 2 hrs and 30 minutes, pretty good time considering our heavy packs.  This was the first time I ever camped at Burgundy Col.  Every time I have every been there it has been super windy so we brought a fair bit of warm cloths and a burly tent.  Turns out it was super nice, relatively warm and not a breath of wind.
 Hanging out at the Col waiting for the face to go into the sun, rocking out to my Iphone. What can I say Every day I'm Hustling
 After soloing up the first bit of 4th class here I am tackling the first of many stellar pitches
 Andy on the super sweet sustain 5.10c second pitch, the pitch is mostly sustained 5.10b fingers but pulling the rood is a little harder (5.10c?) and Andy took a decent sized fall.
 Looking up the same amazing second pitch right before Andy's wipe
 Andy following the 5.10d crux third pitch, this pitch was just off balance, a slightly leaning some times flaring finger to hands crack, but wicked fun never the less.
 Andy climbing up and leading the final pitch. Ahhh, where to go where to go, there where three options and after a lot of looking around we did really go through the overhanging OW, they looked super hard from below, but once actually climbing them, they really weren't that bad (5.9+) and had pro in the back, something you couldn't tell from below.
 Looking up the final OW pitch
 Looking down the final OW pitch with the sun starting to set, luckily we were only rapping right back down to our tent at Burgundy Col, this is the life!!!!

Rampage is the big obvious corner just to the right of the summit, its a stellar 5 star climb on excellent rock with great protection

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